Meet North America’s Only Mustard Sommelier—Yes, It’s a Real Job

The culinary landscape boasts its fair share of jobs that sound too good to be true. You can be a chocolatier, Master Cheesemaker or even a professional ice cream flavorist. But perhaps none of these folks love what they do like Brandon Collins, corporate executive chef at Unilever and professional mustard sommelier.

What is a mustard sommelier?

Courtesy Maille

Like a sommelier who knows the ins and outs of the wine list, a mustard sommelier knows how to prepare and eat mustard. Collins works for Maille, a mustard brand that has existed in France since 1747. (You’ve no doubt seen the fancy jars before.)

In order to build Maille’s presence in the U.S., the brand needed a domestic mustard expert, and Collins was tapped for the role.

“I spent time with the mustard sommelier we had on staff and learned from him the proper techniques of eating mustard, of preparation, the different styles, the different seeds, the history of [Maille] and of mustard itself,” Collins says. “The predecessor was very picky about who he was going to bestow the title to…I fell in love with mustard. About three years into my training, I was actually able to start utilizing what I’d learned.”

Collins also serves as something of a mustard ambassador, sharing what he’s learned with chefs and the general public to build an appreciation for this mighty condiment.

“As I became a mustard sommelier for Maille, I was also becoming an expert across the category,” says Collins. “I’m not only going to speak about Maille or Dijon when I talk about brands, though I probably hold Dijon dearest myself, because to me it’s the superior of all mustards.”

“I get way too excited about mustard,” he adds. (Hey, if you’re going to be a sommelier, having an infectious enthusiasm doesn’t hurt.)

The Best Ways to Use Mustard

Because there are so many varieties and brands of mustard, choosing the right one depends on what you’re making—so it helps to have plenty of options on hand.

“Currently, at home, I have probably 14 different mustards,” Collins says. “A dill pickle mustard from Terrapin Ridge Farms, Colman’s Mustard, four or five different Mailles in my fridge. There’s a pineapple mustard from Hawaii that’s absolutely killer, with a Dijon base.”

For the typical backyard cookout, he says, a classic yellow mustard like French’s will work great. Its high turmeric and vinegar content plays well against salty meats like hot dogs and hamburgers. Incorporating it into a recipe, however, isn’t ideal, as its high acidity level can overpower the other ingredients. In those cases, it might be better to try Dijon, which Collins refers to as the true “workhorse” mustard because its slightly mellower flavors complement a wider variety of dishes.

Don’t forget about whole-grain mustards, which are ideal for charcuterie boards. It’s also “absolutely killer” on top of smoked salmon, Collins says.

What’s the most unexpected use for mustard?

As a sommelier, Collins has a wide range of recommendations—some of which even the biggest mustard fans might never have heard of before.

“I’m a huge proponent of this: After doing a bunch of research, I realized that mustard reacts with chocolate the same way that espresso does,” Collins says. “So whenever you have a chocolate cake recipe that calls for instant espresso powder, and you don’t have any… add a little Dijon mustard to your brownie mix or to your cake mix. It enhances that chocolate flavor, but it doesn’t taste like mustard. You’re just going to have a chocolate brownie that tastes really good.”

And if you thought chocolate mustard brownies were the only dessert-oriented suggestion, you’d be wrong.

“Whenever you’re talking about grainy mustards and similarly textural things, I tend to put them on top of premium, high-fat vanilla ice cream, because it adds a cool texture and complements the sweetness,” Collins says. “That tends to be a little bit more of a stretch for some people, but it’s more or less the same as drizzling olive oil on top of ice cream.”

Even if these suggestions haven’t made you want a Dijon brownie, the variety and versatility of mustard is undeniable, and it’s unsurprising that someone could make a whole career out of learning more about it.

Perhaps mustard’s greatest attribute, according to Collins, is that it’s “so much better than ketchup.” Chicagoans who are passionate about their regional hot dogs certainly understand what he’s talking about.

What’s the best mustard for people who hate mustard?

Many people who don’t like mustard might have tried an assertive yellow variety once and been put off forever. To convince the mustard skeptics, Collins recommends spreading Dijon on a sandwich along with some mayo to diffuse its flavor profile.

Alternatively, people on the fence about this condiment can opt for a honey mustard, as long as it’s a brand that’s not too cloyingly sweet. From there, a mustard newbie can decide to work their way up to the stronger flavors, like spicy horseradish and Chinese-style hot mustard.