Julia Child has been beloved by home cooks for decades. She’s particularly well-known for her meticulous recipes for French classics, like this coq au vin.
It surprised everyone, then, when Julia decided to showcase a lasagna on her show, The French Chef. Rather than the carefully translated recipes cooks had come to expect, Julia dissed the classic Italian dish. After the episode aired, Italian-Americans sent her scathing letters, offended by everything from her lack of familiarity with lasagna to her bizarre ingredient choices. Here’s the scoop on this culinary scandale.
Did you know Julia Child was a spy? Learn more surprising facts about the famous cook.
The Scandal
For Italian purists, lasagna is an occasion. The layered pasta dish is a labor of love to create, from mixing and rolling homemade noodles to making sauce from scratch to carefully layering the meat, cheese and noodles. It’s a special occasion dish that, done right, is a true showstopper.
Rather than sharing the pride and joy of Italian cookery with her viewers, Julia declared that lasagna was “a great way to use up leftovers,” and proceeded to prepare what she called Lasagne a la Francaise. During the half-hour show, she called lasagna “peasant food,” used canned tomatoes and a generic “Italian seasoning” mix in her sauce, and—sacrilege!—forgot to add garlic.
To top it off, she admitted that she didn’t know exactly how lasagna should be assembled. Then, she started layering, and things got really weird.
Julia Child’s Unusual Lasagna Recipe
To appreciate the oddness of Julia’s lasagna, it’s worth going layer by layer:
In addition to her homemade tomato sauce, she made a white sauce with wine and onion—so far, so good.
She boiled boxed pasta noodles to al dente—again, right on track.
Here’s where things take a turn. As Julia layered the noodles into the pan, she admitted that she wasn’t sure how Italian cooks did it. Uh-oh. The ratio of noodle to sauce to meat is important, lest cooks end up with dry, sauce-less bites or sodden, over-stuffed pockets.
As she layered, she added “yesterday’s roast, be it poultry, veal or pork.” Diced, cubed or ground? No matter! Other leftovers, she advised, could be tossed in as well. Cooked spinach? Go ahead! Poached eggs? Sure. Mushrooms? Just fine.
In between emptying her crisper drawer onto the sheets of pasta, Julia also managed to slather on cottage cheese.
Shockingly, Julia’s recipe also called for saffron threats and dried orange peel, a Mediterranean twist that veers closer to Morocco than Italy. (Nothin’ wrong with that, maybe, but it’s far from authentic.) Curious? Watch the full episode here.
The Takeaway
It’s understandable that Italian-American cooks were upset by the recipe. At the time, many Americans might not have heard of lasagna, and Julia Child’s introduction was probably not ideal.
Today, home cooks are more familiar with a diverse array of cuisines, and recipes are more casual, simplifying complicated processes to suit a hectic lifestyle. Even Taste of Home is guilty of besmirching the classic: our most popular lasagna recipes include versions with buffalo chicken, Mexican spices and even lasagna made with ravioli.
It’s also fair to note that, even as Julia Child’s cookbooks contain precise renderings of time-honored dishes, her TV show revealed a confident, casual cook who might forget the garlic or add too much cottage cheese, but who soldiered on without apologizing. Now that’s a model worth following.
Enjoy our favorite Julia Child quotes.
25 French Recipes Inspired by Julia
Inspired by: Provençale Tomato Sauce
Fresh tomatoes are the star of this sauce! The best time to make this recipe is when tomatoes are at the height of their ripeness during the summer. —Susan Bronson
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French LoavesMy kids love to help me make this delicious bread recipe. It's quite easy, and they enjoy the fact that they can be eating fresh bread in about two hours! —Denise Boutin, Grand Isle, Vermont
Three-Cheese SoufflesNo matter when I've made these soufflés, they have always been a success. Although I've never seen the centers start to fall, it's best to plan on serving them hot from the oven. —Jean Ference, Sherwood Park, Alberta
Cauliflower au GratinCount on this dish to make new vegetable converts. Whenever I serve it, people ask me for the recipe. Sometimes I’ll substitute broccoli for all or half the cauliflower, and the green veggie tastes just as good! —Jacki Ricci, Ely, Nevada
Banana CrepesI like to serve this impressive treat at parties. The pleasant banana-orange flavor makes it wonderful for dinner or brunch. —Freda Becker, Garrettsville, Ohio
Salmon Mousse CupsI make these tempting little tarts frequently for parties. They disappear at an astonishing speed, so I usually double or triple the recipe. The salmon-cream cheese filling and flaky crust will melt in your mouth. —Fran Rowland, Phoenix, Arizona
Chocolate Gingerbread Yule LogIf you’ve tasted a yule log sponge cake, you’ll love this version with fresh ginger and spices. The holiday stunner can be made ahead. —Lauren Knoelke, Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Cassoulet for the GangWine lends a warm background taste to this take on a traditional French stew. The recipe feeds 10, making it a great option when you’re expecting guests—or wanting some leftovers for weekday lunches! &mdash Lynn Stein, Joseph, Oregon
Slow-Cooker Boeuf BourguignonI’d wanted to make boeuf bourguignon (beef Burgundy) ever since I got one of Julia Child’s cookbooks, but I wanted to find a way to fix it in a slow cooker. My slow-cooker boeuf bourguignon is still rich, hearty and delicious, but there's no need to watch it on the stovetop or in the oven. —Crystal Jo Bruns, Iliff, Colorado
Inspired by: Chocolate MousseA friend shared this rich velvety
chocolate mousse recipe with me. I love to cook and have tons of recipes, but this one is a favorite. Best of all, it's easy to make. —Judy Spencer, San Diego, California
Shortbread Lemon TartFor a change from ordinary lemon bars, we added grated orange zest to both the crust and filling to turn the recipe into a lemon tart. —Taste of Home Test Kitchen
Backyard Red Potato SaladHere's a potato salad that has no mayo, so it’s perfect for outdoor picnics. Plus, it looks just as good as it tastes. —Holly Bauer, West Bend, Wisconsin
Easy Vanilla Buttercream FrostingAfter trying a few buttercream frosting recipes, this easy vanilla buttercream frosting takes the cake with its unmatchable homemade taste. With a few simple variations, you can come up with different colors and flavors. —Diana Wilson, Denver, Colorado
White Wine Garlic ChickenThis garlic chicken is fantastic over cooked brown rice or your favorite pasta. Don't forget a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese too. —Heather Esposito, Rome, New York
Herb-Topped Stuffed TomatoesThis simple treatment perfectly complements the fresh taste of tomatoes. Serve as a side dish to any entree or as a fresh summer appetizer. Mary E. Relyea - Canastota, New York
Spring Essence Soup with PistouDuring the last part of April one year, I picked what I had available in the garden. I found oregano, leeks, asparagus and rhubarb. This became the base for an essence-of-spring recipe. The rhubarb adds a citrus element, which is balanced by the nutty, earthy pistou. It is truly a layering of flavors. —Laurie Bock, Lynden, Washington
Meringue Shells with Lemon CurdWe love a dazzling dessert of meringue shells filled with sunny lemon curd. It’s sweet and tart, crunchy and fluffy. Top this lemon curd dessert with whipped cream and berries. —Kris Brill, Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Chicken Nicoise SaladThis salad makes it easy to eat what’s good for you. It’s versatile, so you can use asparagus in place of green beans and salmon instead of tuna, or add garden tomatoes. And if you follow the keto diet, you'll be happy to know this is a keto chicken salad. —Nick Monfre, Oak Ridge, New Jersey
Lemon & Sage Roasted ChickenWhether it’s soaking in marinade or baking in the oven, this easy-to-prepare chicken allows ample hands-free time. —Jan Valdez, Chicago, Illinois
Homemade MayonnaisePssst! Did you know America’s top-selling condiment and go-to dressing for chicken, tuna and potato salad can be prepared with a handful of everyday pantry items? This mayonnaise recipe will be a new favorite. —Taste of Home Test Kitchen
Gingered Apple Upside-Down CakeI like that this gingerbread delight is so deeply flavored and delicious. Served warm from the oven, a nice scoop of vanilla bean ice cream is definitely the icing on this cake. —Raymonde Bourgeois, Swastika, Ontario
Classic RatatouilleThis rich and flavorful ratatouille is the perfect salute to the harvest. Hearty and full of veggies, it fills the kitchen with the comforting aroma of thyme, onions and garlic. —Diane Trester, Sheboygan, Wisconsin
Classic French Onion SoupEnjoy my signature French onion soup the way my granddaughter Becky does: I make onion soup for her in a crock bowl, complete with garlic croutons and gobs of melted Swiss cheese on top. —Lou Sansevero, Ferron, Utah
Chicken with Red Wine Cream SauceMy creamy chicken tastes like a five-star restaurant dish but takes only minutes and few ingredients to make. Use fresh rosemary. Trust me. —Sarah Campbell, Terre Haute, IN
The Best Cheesy Scalloped PotatoesWhat makes this the best out of all the cheesy scalloped potatoes recipes out there? I slice them extra thin and toss them in an amazingly rich sauce. Then, to make them the best ever, I sprinkle homemade bread crumbs on top—they get nice and crispy in the oven. Make room for these at all your family get-togethers. —Aria Thornton,
Taste of Home Prep Cook
Inspired by: Vichyssoise
I serve this soup with a garnish of minced chives as Julia suggests. Now, I have to admit that cold soup really isn’t my favorite. But I can definitely see how it would be refreshing on a hot day. We needn’t tell Julia I served it warm, right? The soup itself is quite flavorful, despite its simple ingredient list. —Susan Bronson
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